Selecting Minimalist Footwear [Part 5 in the Case for Minimalist Footwear]
This article was originally published on June 10, 2009 at ADVENTUREinPROGRESS. It has been moved to this site so that all of my minimalist footwear articles exist in one place.
Update 03-15-2010: For more information on this topic, check out the article entitled Shoes are Tools.
While the first 4 parts of this series have set barefoot as the ideal, it is unrealistic to assume that barefoot is always practical. There are many situations where some form of footwear is required, whether it be for climate (winter), safety (building construction), hygiene (hospital), function (downhill skiing), or fashion (dress code). Assuming barefoot is the best for our health, the goal when selecting footwear should be to choose something that provides as close to barefoot as constraints allow. Two principles that should be taken into consideration are:
- The purpose of footwear should be to protect the body, not correct the body. When I say protect, I mean protect beyond what the body is capable of doing naturally. For example, when working on a job site, steel shanks are required to protect the feet from sharp objects because our feet do not have this natural ability. People often think of cushioning as protective, however as described in part 2, our body already has an excellent natural shock absorption system and therefore we should not be looking to our footwear to provide this.
- Design perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing else to add but when there is nothing else which can be taken away. This principal should be at the forefront when choosing footwear, the goal should be to find the minimum that is required for the given situation. For example, in Maine there are cold winters with lots of deep snow. The requirements for footwear in this environment are protection from the cold, and the prevention of snow of entering through the top. Stiff soles, cushioning, heels, support, etc. do not fulfill those requirements and therefore are considered unnecessary and unwanted.

Barefoot Ted's huarache sandals, the precursor to what became Luna Sanadals
Keeping those two guiding principles in mind, these are some features to look for:
- Flexible uppers. The uppers should be as light-weight, flexible, and un-restrictive as possible while still meeting the protective requirements. Your feet should not feel confined in any way.
- Roomy uppers. The uppers should provide adequate room for the foot and toes to spread as required for balance and stability. The less flexible the uppers are, the more important the roominess of the uppers become. Again, the goal should be that your feet not feel confined in any way.
- Flat soles. The soles should be as flat as possible so as to not cause you to walk with a heel strike.
- Flexible soles. The soles should be thin and flexible while still meeting the protective requirements. Movement and flexibility of your foot should be natural and unrestricted.
- Breathable. The shoes should be breathable so that the foot stays dry and comfortable. This is very important in cases where your footwear is required to be waterproof.
- Durable. The construction should be of adequate durability for the intended purpose.
There will always be cases where people will be forced to compromise on one or more of the above items. The important things to understand are: what the ideal is, what the compromises are, and how those compromises affect the body.
Knowing what you want in a pair of shoes is one thing, but actually finding it is something else. To see what products qualify, check-out the Toe Salad directory.



Comments
Thanks as always Damien. You
Thanks as always Damien. You may be aware already, but I'm on IE8 and some of the images aren't coming through.
Otherwise, excellent post. Thank you for doing all of the research.
Interesting...
Thanks for the encouraging words!
If anyone else out there is having problems, please let me know.
Damien Tougas
http://www.adventureinprogress.com
http://www.toesalad.com
Great Post
Very thorough post, Damien. I really enjoyed reading it.
I'm extremely interested in the Teva Protons now, I'd never seen them before.
I've been pining for a barefoot alternative for the winter. The closest I've come to something suitable is Vivo Barefoot Dundan boots, which are not on sale again until the fall. Maybe with all this interest in the barefoot alternative, other shoe companies will introduce barefoot alternative models for when it's not suitable to be completely barefoot.
(P.S. If there are supposed to be images for all the models, the huaraches, Tevas, Nike Frees, Earth Shoes, Asics, and New Balance images didn't work in my Firefox browser.)
Thanks Tina
I have fixed the image problem, let me know if you still see problems.
I am in agreement with you, winter/spring/snowy/wet/cold conditions are largely untapped territory when it comes to minimalist/barefoot footwear. I have a LOT of ideas in this regard and would love to have the opportunity to work with a company in designing something in this regard. In the meantime, here are a few ideas you can try:
- Steger Mukluks (http://www.mukluks.com/) have some VERY warm models. I have never tried them (yet), so I don't know how "minimalist" they are. The biggest downside from my perspective is that they are made of leather, which doesn't really work well when it gets wet.
- NEOS overshoes (http://www.overshoe.com/), especially the uninsulated ones, have pretty thin, flat soles. They are relatively light and completely waterproof. You can wear whatever you like underneath. The downsides are that they are a little bulky, and can get hot because they don't breathe.
I am also experimenting with some different combinations of light-weight footwear coupled with thick socks, gore-tex liner socks, and gaiters. As I figure out combinations that work, I will be blogging the results so stay tuned!
Damien Tougas
http://www.adventureinprogress.com
http://www.toesalad.com
I ran in the teva protons
I ran in the teva protons briefly before getting a pair of vibrams. They seemed find for running. I also wore them casually quite often because their so easy to slip on and off. My feet got really sweaty with them though, although my feet sweat quite a bit. Teva also offers some casual shoes that have thin soles such as the Teva Keagan. I've had two pairs of them...
I thought the Proton was a
I thought the Proton was a great minimalist shoe for kids. My kids really liked them too. Sadly, Teva has discontinued the model and we haven't been able to find a replacement yet.
Damien Tougas
http://www.adventureinprogress.com
http://www.toesalad.com
Good stuff per usual. I am
Good stuff per usual.
I am going to be sending a LOT of folks to this entire series of posts because I think they are very well done.
Great job Damien.
BFT
Thanks Ted
Thanks for the encouraging words, it has been a LOT of work for me, I am looking forward to being done the series soon!
Damien Tougas
http://www.adventureinprogress.com
http://www.toesalad.com
Five Fingers
I jumped in with both feet today - wearing Classic Five Fingers to run a 5 km race. I've worn them this past week around the house, ran in them for 1 km on the 'paved' circle we live on and thought why not give them a try today at the race. It was a paved route, but I ran on the the shale-like shoulder when possible. My left heel felt a bit tender after the race - not sure if that's from stepping on a rock or because of old habits of heel-striking. This race is a favorite in Nova Scotia - today, a record field of over 600 runners! I had lots of people looking at them (from a distance) and at least 20 runners came up and asked me about them - I recommended your website to a few, as I am still learning about minimalist footwear. Today's experience was definitely positive - thanks again for your encouragement to help me on this trail! Oh yeah, I must add, I had an awesome race too - think it was a PB but have to go back and check my stats! If it was strictly the shoes..I'd be buying stocks in the company :)
Wow!
Wow, you really did jump in with both feet! And a PB too! Good for you! Are you feeling it today? I would imagine that using a few new muscles would have resulted in some sort of soreness or stiffness somewhere. I very interested in following your progress to see how things go for you!
Damien Tougas
http://www.adventureinprogress.com
http://www.toesalad.com
The day after
I can feel some soreness along the back edge of my heels, nothing bad. My calves are pretty tender - probably from the different foot-striking action; might also be due to the fact we cycled to the race, 25 kms, and after, biked another 75 kms. We're training for our 7-day, 800km bike tour this summer so fitting in the cycling distance wherever we can.
Felt shoes?
I've only just discovered this concept and haven't even finished reading your series, so this might not be right, but I wanted to throw in my favorite pair of shoes. I cannot remember the brand right now, but they're wool felt. Wide, roomy, flexible, flat, and breathable. If anything the sole might be too cushioned, but with my current plantar fasciitis (wondering if going barefoot would help that?) they're the only shoes that don't hurt and have actually helped. Bonus, they're good for winter :) The only durability issue is I've worn holes in the tops from my toenails! But that is easily fixed :)
What brand?
I would love to know what brand you are referring to. I did a quick Internet search but didn't turn up much that looked minimalist. I am interested in knowing more about these.
Damien Tougas
http://www.adventureinprogress.com
http://www.toesalad.com
Flexible footwear
I'm reading your blog at the request of a family member who is interested in your idea. I am an orthopedic surgery resident and have an interest in the foot and ankle field. I am not in complete agreement with your conclusions thus far, and will comment further in the future. I did want to mention at this point however that a company called "Flexible Footwear" makes a great negative heel counter shoe with wonderful flexible sole that allows you to strength your intrinsic foot muscles while protecting you from the elements. I wear them in the hospital and during long operations. You can get some information from their website at www.flexiblefootwear.com. Just a suggestion.
Flexible Footwear
Thanks for the link. I hadn't heard of Flexible Footwear before, I will definitely check them out. A brief search online does not turn up much in the way of resellers. Do they have to be ordered specially?
Damien Tougas
http://www.adventureinprogress.com
http://www.toesalad.com
Flexible Footwear
I tried out a shoe from flexiblefootwear at one of the trade shows. Wow! I was really impressed. The first new shoe I have ever put on that was instantly comfortable. They are special order only.
Feelmax's new bottom sole
if you read a bunch of Feelmax reviews, they all have similar issues with durability and water resistance, but one that stands out is Barefoot Ted's review. he says the pair he got from Feelmax to test work great in both those areas.
i've been emailing Feelmax and have found out that BFT's shoes work great because they're the new "Niesa" model that have an updated bottom sole to address these issues. it sounds like Miia is saying all the Niesa models on Feelmax's webstore have this new sole now and other models will have it soon. as soon as i confirm this, i'm immediately buying a pair. they seem like the best combo of style (acceptable at work) and performance. besides, BFT loves them :)
All Stars
I'm surprised the ubiquitous Converse All Stars aren’t included in your comparison - I wear them for running and training and find they provide reasonable sole protection without adjusting the foot position.
Thanks for the list and
Thanks for the list and descriptions. I've been wearing VFF's for almost two years, but it wo9uld be nice to wear something a little less obvious.
Gurkee Sandals
Another shoe option that you could add is Gurkee Sandals. They are a rope sandal that is very light weight and has a completely flat and flexible sole. Check them out at http://gurkees.com/
I have used the Neptune model for a couple of years now and use it to go into stores.
They float and are machine washable.
Great article!
David Henry
Gurkees
Hello David,
I had not hear of Gurkees before, thanks for bringing them to my attention, I will have to check them out some time. Looks like they might work well for camping too.
Damien Tougas
http://www.adventureinprogress.com
http://www.toesalad.com
Thanks for this list. It's
Thanks for this list. It's the best, most comprehensive list I've seen. I want to check out the last 2 items on your list. These look like interesting alternatives.
In terms of water shoes and cold, I've had no issues running in my Speedo Aquasocks in below zero temps. I do where them with socks in the Winter, and use them for running, which might be different than other activities.
I have plans
I have plans (somewhat loose at this point) to create a minimalist shoe directory where people can submit, rate, and review the various makes and models. It is still in the planning/dreaming phase, but hopefully something will materialize.
Damien Tougas
http://www.adventureinprogress.com
http://www.toesalad.com
Minimalist Running Shoes for 2010
Great post! I agree on pretty much everything! Just so you know, I am consulting for a new shoe company (ProZero) that will be making shoes next year that will have all the design components you mentioned: Flexible, Breathable, Roomy Uppers, Zero Drop (Flat) Soles, Flexible, non-cushioned soles, and durable to boot!
Nice!
I am always interested to know more about new and upcoming minimal footwear products. If/when they are looking for testers and feedback, I would love to be able to help out.
Damien Tougas
http://www.adventureinprogress.com
http://www.toesalad.com
Feiyue
I've read this comparative review with great interest, Damien, thank you for writing it. If you have the opportunity, you could also try the original Feiyue shoes: they're martial arts shoes, originally, but I've used them for running too. The sole is on the thin side, slightly rounded, and cut in stripes so to be really flexible. They've been designed for "kung-fu" (wushu), as I was saying, so for kicks, jumps, and other motions that require that you keep control of your feet, rather than surrender it to your footwear. They won't win a beauty contest, they won't last you years, but they're easy to slip on and off (while still being secure on your feet), and a pair is really cheap -- $15 on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Tiger-Claw-Feiyue-Martial-Shoes/dp/B000DN7XU4/ref=...
Hello Pierre-Alexandre,
Hello Pierre-Alexandre, welcome!
I have seen those Feiyue shoes before, and I have been very interested in trying them out. In fact, there are many different pairs of shoes that I wish I could try some day. My problem is that there are too many different models, and I don't have enough money to invest in testing them all (I wish I could!). Granted these ones are inexpensive, so maybe one day!
Maybe I should create a fund on my website where people can donate money for me to buy and test different shoes. Then again, maybe that would be not a good idea... what do you think?
Damien Tougas
http://www.adventureinprogress.com
http://www.toesalad.com
PayPal
Why not a PayPal button? They're unobtrusive and, personally, while I don't like being forced into donations, I do like being given the opportunity to say "thank you" with my money. From time to time, I give $6 (so that there's more than $5 left after the PayPal tax) for a website or freeware I found useful, or for a webcomic I enjoy. And some people must be more generous than me, or there wouldn't be any webcomic artist making a living out of their work!
Just four people making a $5 donation would pay for the Feiyue shoes, shipping included.
feiyues
I have been running in feiyues, (wushu shoes) for a few months and like them very much and until i find something better will buy more. They cost 16.00 ds.
Hey Damien, So I remembered
Hey Damien,
So I remembered reading this post a long time ago and I remembered that you put new soles on a pair of running shoes. I was wondering, where did you find material for the soles? I have a relatively flat pair of black leather shoes that I use when I need to dress up a little. The rubber soles on them are coming off so I figured I'd take the opportunity to just take them off all together and use them to trace some new, completely flat, rubber pieces to glue on. I'm going to go to the local shoe repair guy and see if he has any suggestions, but I thought I'd ask where you got your sole material from too.
Thanks!
Kelly
Hello Kelly, I used
Hello Kelly,
I used something called Elephant bark that I bought from here
I ended-up buying way more than I need, so if you want I would be happy to sell you some at the same price that I paid for it. Of course if you are on the west coast, buing it yourself may be cheaper with shipping, I guess it all depends on how much you want.
Damien Tougas
http://www.adventureinprogress.com
http://www.toesalad.com
heel lift
high I have wide fronts of my feet but i also get heel lift quite bad. This makes shoe selection difficult. Just wondering if anyone has any suggesstions
You didn't mention what
You didn't mention what kind/style of shoes it is you are looking for. Huraches, Feelmax Niesas, and FiveFingers don't have this problem due to the way they are designed.
Damien Tougas
http://www.adventureinprogress.com
http://www.toesalad.com
Saucony Bullets
I'm surprised you didn't put Saucony Bullets on this list. They were track spikes in the mid 80s, and Saucony re-released them without spikes. The sole is extremely thin and flexible (I can even bend my toes forward in them really far!) and I've heard of other minimalist runners running in them.
Thanks for the tip. I hadn't
Thanks for the tip. I hadn't heard of that one before, I will have to check it out.
Damien Tougas
http://www.adventureinprogress.com
http://www.toesalad.com
Re: Saucony Bullet
This shoe (the bullet) may be a good candidate for a zero
drop modification depending on your needs. However, it is an old
school Track/Cross Country racer which means it has a quite narrow,
performance fit and is also why there is no foam in the forefoot, but
the heel still has a whole bunch of crap going on! Nice shoe if you
have narrow, pointy feet and you want to do a zero drop mod without
any cushioning...
As for the people asking about drop from heel to toe and modifications, just take your shoes to a local shoemaker or cobbler...ours does Zero Drop Modifications for $20. Any shoemaker should be able to sand out the midsole and glue the outsole back on too. Just find a shoe that fits well and take it in...
-Golden
www.runners-corner.com
Thanks for the great info
Thanks for the great info Golden!
Damien Tougas
http://www.adventureinprogress.com
http://www.toesalad.com
Comments
Damien,
Nothing like a clear, well-structured piece of writing! Thank you.
Of course the downside of clear writing is that it makes it an easy target for critics. I am going to give you my feedback. I would never have been able to develop this feedback if you hadn’t done all the heavy lifting of developing this systematic outlook in the first place.
First, some background about me. I have been doing minimalist footwear since September 2009. I have used leather moccasins, Feelmax Kussaa and Kuuva, Sockwa Playa and Amphibian, Zinetic, and paper-shoes. I visited the Terra Plana store, but didn’t buy anything there. I never found any VFFs that fit me. I plan to start looking for Onitsukas soon. To be honest, I have not yet found any satisfactory minimalist footwear. They all have what I deem to be significant downsides.
In this post, I want to make two points. First, I want to modify the criteria that you have enunciated. Secondly, I want to question your elevation of barefoot as the ideal.
Again, I want to stress that the spirit in which I intend this to be read is one of comradeship. I view myself as a footwear minimalist and I view you one as well. I see you as attempting to develop a minimalist footwear worldview and I applaud that attempt. I see some areas where I think your worldview can be strengthened. You are, of course, free to accept or reject my comments as you deem appropriate.
First, let’s discuss the criteria for minimalist footwear. You are dead-on when you stress that the purpose is to protect the body. That is why we wear things on our feet instead of going barefoot (apart from cultural, stylistic reasons).
In this post, I want to focus on your discussion of the sole of the footwear. The criteria you give are flexibility and flatness. I would argue that these criteria are necessary but not sufficient. My overarching criterion is that, given the constraint of protection, I want to maximize the information that my foot receives from the world external to my body. One can have soles that are flexible, flat, and thick. The thickness of the shoe will reduce the amount of information that my foot receives. In general, the thinner the sole, the greater the amount of information transmitted from world to foot.
Another criterion that I look for in the sole of almost any minimalist footwear is waterproofness. If I lived in Southern California or Saudi Arabia, this would not be a concern. Living as I do in a region where rain and snow occur with some regularity, I want shoes that keep my feet as dry as possible. The upper can be breathable, but the outer sole should keep the water out.
Second, I want to step back for a moment and question whether barefoot is the ideal. I am going to put forward an argument that challenges that ideal. I don’t know whether or not this argument is correct. But if it is, it has great bearing on the question of minimalist footwear.
The argument derives from the argument given by Richard Wrangham in his recent book Catching Fire. Wrangham does not discuss footwear, but he does argue that human beings have been using tools and technology long enough that our brains, intestines, and other physiological structures have adapted to our use of these technologies that we have used for thousands of years.
I have not done an in-depth anthropological study of footwear. But I have done a quick, cursory study. It appears to be a practice widespread among many ancestral societies for members to make and wear moccasin-like footwear. For just one example, you can read The Uttermost Part of the Earth: Indians of Tierra del Fuego by E. Lucas Bridges.
If our brains and intestines adapted to the use of fire, it is possible that our feet, when we left Africa, say, adapted to the use of footwear in harsh climates. Just as the skin of the people who left Africa and settled in Europe changed its pigmentation, so it is possible that their feet adapted to the use of moccasins, say, in the snow.
If that is the case, then the ideal that I seek is not to be barefoot as much as possible. The ideal I seek is to wear shoes that are compatible with the physiology that has been handed down to me by my human ancestors.
Note, that I do not advocate a form of contemporary primitivism. That is, I do not say that I have to find out kinds of shoes the Iroquois wore, and wear them. I want to wear shoes that are compatible with my evolutionary heritage, but I have no desire to wear replicas of the shoes worn by my ancestors.
I believe that contemporary materials and production methods can allow us to improve upon the models of footwear created by our ancestors. And, in any case, I don’t live in the same environment (cultural or material) that my ancestors lived in.
So, if I were to pen a minimalist footwear manifesto it would stress the need to wear footwear that fulfills the functions of our human ancestors but allows for the use of materials and methods unknown to them.
Nike Free
I bought a pair of Nike Free 5.0 over a year ago and still love them. Too much arch, but I don't strike me heel (now) and the heel does not bother me. Mostly, the mesh top and flexible front are great for my light jogging (I'm a large, heavy slogger of a runner).
What I love about them most, though, is that they last. Because of my weight I was told to change shoes every 300 miles, but by changing my running style (from heel striking) and shoe, this pair is still great.
I know a number of people are biased against Nike, but these shoes breathe and last.
Shoe sellection:
I have been reading through your post and wondering what shoe you would recommend. I broke my leg and dislocated my ankle a couple of years ago. I still have a swelling and pain. Walking without a shoe is difficult and when ever I am on my feet for long amounts of time and or on uneven ground such as working in the garden then I can hardly walk for days.
Thanks
ps. the doctor says this is as good as it gets with the type of injury I had.
I don't know. I am not a
I don't know. I am not a mecial professional, so I can't really comment on what would be most suitable for your specific condition.
Damien Tougas
http://www.adventureinprogress.com
http://www.toesalad.com
What shoe would you
What shoe would you recommend. I broke my leg a couple of years ago and dislocated my ankle. I still have swelling, and if I am on my feet for long periods of time or on uneven surfaces like gardening I am not able to walk for days
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